The air in Elephant and Castle was hot and thick. It has been like this for days across south London and at times it’s been too much. Suffocatingly so. But not on Tuesday, given the breeze that was also whipping around, offering sweet relief to commuters and passersby alike.
Nowhere was it stronger than on Elephant Road, a strip of small businesses located underneath the railway station and where this area’s strong Colombian community regularly congregate. There are Colombian restaurants here, such as Lenos & Carbon, as well as delicatessens, such as La Fama. And there are bars, none more popular than the Colombian, or so it seemed from the queue of people that had formed outside the venue by 4pm. They stood waiting underneath fluttering flags, most dressed in yellow, blue and red, the colours of Los Cafeteros – excitement building ahead of battle with England
“We’ve had big nights here before but not with this much excitement, and that’s definitely because we’re playing England,” said Mateo Quintero, the 20-year-old son of the bar’s owner, César. “There’s a big Colombian community in Elephant and Castle; of the eight arches located on this road six are used by Colombian businesses, so this game is like home versus home. But Colombians are really passionate about their national team and want them to win, no matter who they’re playing.”
That much could be taken from the blowing of whistles and banging of tables that broke out when pictures of the team arriving at the Spartak Stadium appeared on the seven wall-mounted screens located across this Tardis-like venue, with fever pitch reached on the playing of the Colombian national anthem, via Moscow, at 6.54pm, Oh Gloria Inmarcesible met by a firing of confetti and the gusto of an army going to war.
Pre-kick-off excitement quickly gave way to nervousness given England’s early domination. It was not going how the crowd here wanted and, sensing that, the in-house DJ called for chanting: “Co-lombia! Co-lombia!” The call was met but halfheartedly so and it was not until Juan Quintero’s shot just before half-time that those in attendance rediscovered their excitement. That led to more blowing of whistles – and here’s the thing about lots of whistles being blown at the same time: it’s really annoying. Imagine someone jabbing a pencil into your temple. That.
As the mood darkened, César continued to serve behind the bar while Mateo watched from among the hordes with clear despair. Hope was slipping away – but then it all changed, with Yerry Mina’s late header leading to wild screaming, dancing and, yes, those whistles.
Colombia Tierra Querida, a popular song from back home, played in the minutes before extra time, during which the DJ then led a chant of “Olé! Olé! Olé!” and this time was met by an emphatic response. They believed in Colombia in the Colombian but ultimately it was not to be. The lights came on after the penalty shootout and most of those in yellow, blue and red quietly walked into what was now a dark and cool night.